As I continue my journey of the Scarab dress, I sit here waiting for the anaesthetics to give way for the feeling of a removed wisdom tooth. Good riddance, that’s for sure, but I’m a bit of a wuss when it comes to teeth removal and its accompanying pain. Anyway, I wanted to share some of the tools I’ve made use of to pin down my dress design.
Last week was all about finding something I wanted to work with and integrate this in my Scarab dress project. I looked through all my notes and sketches and the pictures I had found of garment structures I’d like to do. The common denominator was layers, specifically one layer coming out from under another, like in the skirt below. That and cowl sleeves, which still reminds me of insect legs when enough fabric folds are draped along the length of the sleeve, like in the picture from Helen Joseph Armstrong’s wonderful book, Patternmaking for Fashion Design.
I did some sketches on draped collars and whatnots and then raided some of the huge scrap boxes at school and started draping the odds and ends about my fitted bodice block muslin, just playing with the fabrics. When I was satisfied, and had tested all my sketched ideas, I sat down with my teacher, and she helped me put this work together enough that I had an idea of how to make a pattern for the dress.
I started drafting the pattern on a quarter size bodice, but I couldn’t get the results I wanted, as some lines would always end up skewed. This can be a consequence of the quarter size-pattern being a size 38 and my bodice being a size 46 with some length chopped off in the middle. I decided to play a bit more with my bodice and some thread and pins to pin down (heh) the line placement.
Tomorrow I’ll start transferring these lines to my pattern and move some darts about so they end up inside the lines. My vision of this dress, is to have a fabric with some body (like dupioni silk) in the dress itself and then have a lovely drapey fabric escape from inside the front neckline, drape itself in a collar around the neckline and continue inside the dress front where there are currently two lines which in my head are supposed to be folds which the fabric from the collar can move through. It then will go around back and end inside the skirt fold which is also illustrated with thread and pins. I haven’t made up my mind about skirt length and width – or the cowl sleeves which I envision in a drapey silk satin for that matter – yet, but I’m getting there. My teacher also suggested having a closed neckline with a zipper in the bak that didn’t go all the way up, like they did in the 50’s – I’m loving this idea 🙂 The dress should be finished by Thursday next week, and I think I will manage if I get the pattern ready and go fabric shopping this week.